Eljer Power Flush toilet parts
Hi, I've got an Eljer 141-7000 toilet with a model 150-403 PF/2 Energizer power flush by a company called WTC Technology. It's taken to running and hissing at random intervals (generally when the local water pressure goes up at zero-dark-thirty). I'm told that there was supposedly a repair/modification kit that would eliminate these headaches. Does anyone know who stocks the repair parts for this puppy? All of my local supply houses draw a blank when I throw this one at them. I would contact Eljer directly regarding this, they might warranty the assembly if it is proven to be defective. Now, one thing I would try is a drain down. Shut water off to toilet, hold handle down to release all water pressure of the canister. Kinda like rebooting a computer. Disconnect water line from supply valve to toilet while performing this task. Hook the water line back up, check to see if this helps your situation; canister could of been waterlogged possibly. Check your water pressure; if you have pressure that is fluctuating dramatically in your home without proper protection, this probably is the reason why the toilet malfunctioned to begin with. Anything over 60 pounds is high pressure, and you cannot tell what your water pressure is by looking at it, it must be gauged off a cold water outlet with all fixtures off while testing. The draindown was something that worked in the past, but has slowly become less effective. I am under the impression that there may have been a recall/repair notice for this model, but I've not found any useful info on Eljer's website. This started to be an issue when work was done on the waterlines upstream of the meter some 8 months ago. I suspect it sucked some grit, and there may be some seal that is damaged or degraded. Some of the water pressure issue comes from the house next door being vacant, since their utilities were turned off, this became more frequent. I have some info from WTC, but their website no longer exists, and the phone number on the flush unit no longer gets me anywhere (not in service). I recently contacted W/C Technology on 1-888-732-9282 and ordered a rebuild kit from them that included all moving parts on the PF-2 Energizer that I have. You can also go to www.pf-2.com and get plenty of info on the units. This actually carrys you to Chicago Faucets, who incidently, sent me the rebuild kit. I have experienced the same problem you are describing at my lakehouse. The water there has some sand/grit on occasion and varying water pressure. I have found that a bit of sand in either the flush piston or the flush controller can cause slight leaks that come and go. Really annoying when it decides to do it at night. At last! I was beginning to think I was the only mook who bought one of these things. Thanks for the info. If you think you were feeling low...........I bought three of these hogs. I suspect that they made four, you bought one and I have the other three. I have the exact same toilet and now it takes up to 10min sometimes to fill. It just sits there and hisses. I'm going to try the REBOOT mentioned earlier. I'll see what this does. Also is there suppose to be water on the outside of the pressurized white tank? there is about an inch in a half of standing water in the tank. John Ok, I did the reboot thingy and still nothing so I decided to go extreme and decompressurize the vessel and open the main discharge chamber which is the one under the 7 screws. after I took it apart I found a lot of residue on the walls of the chamber and the fill valve. After cleaning everything and putting it all back together everything seems to be working good. From time of flush to finish re-pressuring the cambers for next flush is under 40sec. John Thanks for all the replies. I was stumped with what to do. So i read all the replies and decided to take all the screws off the top and clean it. Plus i also took all the threaded fittings apart and checked the o-rings. Didn't find a thing wrong, so i put it all back together and it works like new. Joel I am leaving this for other who have a pressure assist flushing toilet with the W/C Technologies PF/2 Energizer (Model 150-403), and are experiencing problems with the unit failing to recharge. Certainly, you should try all the tricks to see if you can correct your problem, but here are my observations about these units. I have two Eljer Aquasaver using a 141-7000 tank with the PF/2 which were installed new in 2001. Both units suffer from the same condition of not resetting after a flush, and this condition gets worse during the winter months when the water temperature is colder (35 to 40 degree range). This occurred the first time on both units within two years of installation. At that time (if you sent in the warranty card) W/C offered a two year warranty, and when I contacted the company they sent a complete rebuild kit for both units and that corrected the problem. Two years later, the condition returned. Although I have had some luck getting restoration of function after disassembling the the unit and wiping down the piston (flush valve) and the cylinder wall, but the condition always returns after a few months of use. It is not sand or grit that appears to be the problem (I have a whole house filter and I never find grit when I open the unit up), but friction between the flush valve seal and the cylinder barrel. If you slide a new flush valve in and out and compare the friction observed for the same operation with the malfunctioning one you will feel a difference in resistance to movement as you get the end of the barrel (you will also note that friction increases towards end of the cylinder barrel as the bore has a slight taper to it). What really appears to be the problem is the swelling of the rubber seal (many rubber toilet parts immersed in water swell somewhat over time). To me this could be indicative of a need to change the design of the seal, but that is way beyond the scope of this write-up. I suspect that if you replace the flush valve every couple of years, available on-line through places like Guillens.com http://www.guillens.com/detail3.asp?PRODUCT_ID=PF350 (at about $16 each), you will likely maintain satisfactory performance and avoid the failure to recharge condition. I finally had enough of monkeying around with these flush units and so far have replaced one with a Sloan 503 FlushMate. I intend to replace the other PF/2 unit as well, and time will tell if this turns out to provide a more trouble free flushing system. So far I am pleased with how the 503 works in comparison to the PF/2 even when the PF/2 was working at its best. One thing to note is Eljer quit using the PF/2 in 2005, and now uses the Sloan 503 (I wonder why - and am willing to bet is because of customer complaints). Also, Sloan offers a PF/2 to 503 conversion kit for $138 (including shipping) which includes the 503 with a flush handle (trip lever), all the gaskets and seals, and a Flushmate 2in1 wrench which is helfpul in converting over to the the 503. This is the kit I installed - and if you look for a place to purchase an Eljer flush handle or any of the gaskets for this type of change-over you will know why. For those interested in the replacement option I ordered mine from FlushMate at http://www.eflushmate.com/. Another bit of (possibly useful) information that I found while searching the WWW is that the PF/2 is now supplied by Chicago Faucets Company (a Geberit company) and they appear to be the current manufacturer of the PF/2. They have a free customer help line for anyone with a PF/2 in their water closet 1-888-732-9282. Hope this information is found to be helpful. I have an American Standard with a Sloan Flushmate. The unit is over 10 years old, sees frequent use and has required no maintenance. I recently had the ole recharge problem get the best of me from my Model 150-403 unit. It has been a pain in the you all know what for a year and a half now not wanting to stop running after flushing it. tapping the handle or turning off the water supply was the only way to stop it. Well I was playing with the Air Activator valve and some how dropped it into the tank only way to retrieve it was take off the tank and turn it upside down, well upon placing it back and then putting the air activator valve back on I discovered after turning on the water and having Old Faithful go all over everything I had lost the check ball inside the Air Activator assembly. Well went all over looking for parts but to no avail. I checked Lowes, HomeDepot, you name it and couldn't find anything to put the assembly back to where it had been before I messed with it and lost the part. Anyway I went to a True Value Hardware store and found to my surprise a ball bearing which fits the assembly perfect. Cost me .45 cents for the bearing. I put it into the assembly put it back on and guess what it shuts off everytime now. Just thought I'd let all you in here with the same problem know this, take the activator assembly out and take it into the store to make sure you get the right sized bearing. Hope it cures your runny problem also. I finally got fed up with the thing and swapped it for a current generation gravity flush Universal Rundle. I was good, and refrained from taking a hammer to the wretched thing. If I had gotten anything resembling real customer support, I might have stuck it out. But for the toilet for my master bedroom, my patience only goes so far. Anybody know if you can convert the PF/2 to a regular gravity toilet? Mine is a Eljer 141-7000. thanks I don't think that they can. I think that the bowl, vents and orifaces are all made for that pressure tank mechanism. When I first purchases my Eljer PF/2 toilet in mid-2005, I didn't realize it was a presurized toilet. Removal of the cover when I pulled it out of the box revealed a bit! I knew something was up when there was a sticker on it saying 5-year warranty. Shortly after I installed it, I ran into the not wanting to charge back up problem. Calling Eljer, they had me do the purge thing and that worked. Little did I know this was a problem for these toilets. Well, here we are 5 years later and just out of warranty having some of the same problems and some new ones. It is possible that the water and sewer on my street had somethign to do with all the muck in the lines. I will say that I've never had a clog though, so that's agood thing. I am going to attempt to do a purge tonight and clean out the pump assembly. Hopefully I won't have to overnight a Sloan 503 conversion kit! -Mario Originally Posted by DUNBAR PLUMBER I would contact Eljer directly regarding this, they might warranty the assembly if it is proven to be defective. Now, one thing I would try is a drain down. Shut water off to toilet, hold handle down to release all water pressure of the canister. Kinda like rebooting a computer. Disconnect water line from supply valve to toilet while performing this task. Hook the water line back up, check to see if this helps your situation; canister could of been waterlogged possibly. Check your water pressure; if you have pressure that is fluctuating dramatically in your home without proper protection, this probably is the reason why the toilet malfunctioned to begin with. Anything over 60 pounds is high pressure, and you cannot tell what your water pressure is by looking at it, it must be gauged off a cold water outlet with all fixtures off while testing. Did the recharge thing. Seems to have worked. I also took the valve apart and cleaned. Mine is a Crane with the same flushing mechanism. We'll see what happens. If you have one of these and it continues to drip and run the defect might be in the air inducer. That's the open top plastic nut on top with the hole in the center. Take it off - supposedly hand tight - and you'll find a tube fitting inside with a couple O rings and a little red plastic ball thet rides up and down, plugs the hole on the top nut when the toilet's refilled and pressurized. Apparently the ball was sticking inside on mine. I knocked it around, a bit of crud came out, and when it ran up and down in the tube (nut on top) freely I put it back and everything worked OK. That was a few years ago - happened again last night and I did the same thing a few times, finally got it working. Now keeping my fingers crossed. We have soft water and I'd guess hard water would gum it up faster. The nut and ball are about $5 from Guillens.com but their website isn't working right and I couldn'r order it. But the tube isn't available so i hope I have it cleaned out OK. If you get the ball free and it works OK once - that's the solution, but it may stick again so try cleaning and getting the ball free again. A couple more things. According to posts about the PF/2 on other websites this sort of PF/2 problem gets worse in cold weather. After the Jan. sticking episodes I had only a few recurrences, most recently yesterday. But relative to a simple gravity feed I just do not trust this stupid thing to keep working. I may be able to buy a good toilet for the price of the rebuild kit for this one and I'm going shopping. Originally Posted by jjk308 A couple more things. According to posts about the PF/2 on other websites this sort of PF/2 problem gets worse in cold weather. After the Jan. sticking episodes I had only a few recurrences, most recently yesterday. But relative to a simple gravity feed I just do not trust this stupid thing to keep working. I may be able to buy a good toilet for the price of the rebuild kit for this one and I'm going shopping. What made the rebuild kit the choice for me was two things. 1) Toilets now come in one big box instead of two. Would need a truck to pickup and than leave at the dump. 2) The rebuild kit is ~$130 and that's far cheaper than a good quality toilet. The Sloan Flushmate kit was easy to install and works good... -Mario Yesterday I gave up on my Eljer. The uncertainty of operation got to me and I went to Home Depot, bought a Glacier Bay Dual Flush elongated bowel toilet kit, on sale for $98, complete with seat. Made in China by UPC so I was a bit concerned. I'd already rebuilt the outlet and flange with a drop in pipe/gasket, this time added some leak stop cement around the flange to give the toilet a firm base and anchor the flange screws tightly. Toilet went right in, no problems except I had to get a slightly longer supply line as this toilet's a couple inches higher than the Eljer. Some confusion in the directions on the tank attachment and flush adjustment but I got through it. Put the old seat back on as the new one was pretty flimsy. Result - toilet works great! I don't care about the half flush but the 1.6 gal. main flush is definitely better than the usual 1.28 gal in other toilets. Its much quieter than the Eljer. Also it has a lifetime guarantee from Home Depot. And as backup, since its not a pressure assist, I could rig up most any standard flapper valve to fit if the dual flush valve proves unreliable. I found that the lower supply has a double screen at bottom of tank. Remove the perferated screen and remove a white thing an O ring in the middle of it with a flat tip screw driver. Put back the first screen reconnected supply line and walah! it worked as good as day 1... The cartridge also has its own problems and if changing it you may need to do the following. 1. In support with this link, Test and Replace: Flush Cartridge - Flushmate Trouble Shooting Guide Videos. I used plumbers grease when screwing cartridge back on, with water running listen to the sound change when turning the cartridge counter clockwise again. You can tell when the pressure starts building up. If you are hearing impaired get someone who can held listen for you. Hope this helps those in trouble with flushmate systems. robellog plumber SB HI
Related Posts:
Eljer toilet flapper replacement
Eljer toilet flapper replacementI recently bought a home and one of the toilets runs. It is an old Eljer toilet (no idea what model or anything) and the flapper does not make a tight seal. I bough...
Flushmate toilet pressure assisted
Flushmate Toilet (pressure assisted)Hi there. Does anyone have experience with the Flushmate equipped toilets on the market? I was at Home Depot the other day and asked which toilet had the best f...
Glacial bay toilet
glacial bay toiletjust bought and installed the duel flush model 215 583 glacial bay toilet from home depot. it will not flush the solids without a minimum of 2 flushes. this is suppose to be a wa...
How to fix blocked toto toilet fill valve tsu26a
fix blocked Toto toilet fill valve TSU26A.Our Toto toilet stopped filling recently, and I got the impression from searching online that I had to replace the fill valve because it was not repairabl...
Expansion tank needed on hot water heater
Expansion tank needed on hot water heater?So i'm looking to replace the current hot water heater and noticed that an expansion tank is recommended...but is it needed if there's no check valve or b...
